How to build a greener (and cheaper) wardrobe
How to build a greener (and cheaper) wardrobe
Fast fashion is so last season. Investing in quality clothes that feel great to wear and is better for the planet and – in the long term – for your pocket, too. But where should you start?
Contact spoke with UQ alum Nick English (Bachelor of Arts 2007), founder of Stridewise and one of the internet’s leading voices on quality menswear and craftsmanship. Through years of reviewing clothing, boots and leather goods, English has developed a deep knowledge of what makes garments last and how to build a sustainable wardrobe without sacrificing style.
Nick English
Nick English
If someone wanted to make their wardrobe more sustainable, what's the first change they should make?
There are many different approaches to sustainability, but my suggestion would be to focus on fibre composition. It’s good to avoid synthetics like polyester, nylon and elastane. They shed microplastics into the environment, water supply and our bodies.
Synthetics certainly have their uses — swimwear, for example — but when you can, go for 100% natural materials like cotton, wool, linen and leather. It's a manageable and meaningful first step.
I’d also focus on fibres because it’s less abstract: it’s not a different experience wearing, say, an Australian-made versus foreign-made T-shirt, but the wearer will notice the difference between a cotton T-shirt and a polyester one. Cotton isn’t just better for the environment, it’s also more breathable and durable.
If someone wanted to make their wardrobe more sustainable, what's the first change they should make?
There are many different approaches to sustainability, but my suggestion would be to focus on fibre composition. It’s good to avoid synthetics like polyester, nylon and elastane. They shed microplastics into the environment, water supply and our bodies.
Synthetics certainly have their uses — swimwear, for example — but when you can, go for 100% natural materials like cotton, wool, linen and leather. It's a manageable and meaningful first step.
I’d also focus on fibres because it’s less abstract: it’s not a different experience wearing, say, an Australian-made versus foreign-made T-shirt, but the wearer will notice the difference between a cotton T-shirt and a polyester one. Cotton isn’t just better for the environment, it’s also more breathable and durable.
What's the biggest misconception people have about building a sustainable wardrobe?
I’d say the idea that sustainable clothes mean looking like a hemp-wearing hippie. I’ve made hundreds of YouTube videos and everything I cover is sustainable, but I’ve never used that word on the channel – it's a turnoff for a lot of guys, unfortunately.
But when it comes to menswear, guys do like the idea of wearing stuff that’s “tough” and will ”endure life’s battles” – and longevity is a big piece of sustainability.
I’ve always called the stuff I cover on my channel “casual and durable” and it’s just stuff that guys already think is cool: they like it when their jeans are faded, when a leather jacket looks worn, when their boots earn a resole. All the coolest stuff you can wear is sustainable!
What's the biggest misconception people have about building a sustainable wardrobe?
I’d say the idea that sustainable clothes mean looking like a hemp-wearing hippie. I’ve made hundreds of YouTube videos and everything I cover is sustainable, but I’ve never used that word on the channel – it's a turnoff for a lot of guys, unfortunately.
But when it comes to menswear, guys do like the idea of wearing stuff that’s “tough” and will “endure life’s battles” – and longevity is a big piece of sustainability.
I’ve always called the stuff I cover on my channel “casual and durable” and it’s just stuff that guys already think is cool: they like it when their jeans are faded, when a leather jacket looks worn, when their boots earn a resole. All the coolest stuff you can wear is sustainable!
Are there particular fabrics you recommend people prioritise – or avoid – when they're trying to shop more sustainably?
Yes, polyester is everywhere. If you’re going to avoid just one word on a label, making the word “polyester” a disqualifier will probably make the biggest difference.
Many other fibres are petroleum byproducts too, including elastane, spandex, lycra, nylon and polyurethane. But polyester is more widespread and tends to take up more of a fabric’s composition. If you want a category to avoid, I’d say “all petroleum byproducts.” But listen, I wear these materials too.
When it comes to changing your lifestyle to align more with your ethics, I always say that just because you aren’t doing everything doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing anything. Choosing a cotton T-shirt over a polyester one is still a better choice, even if you still wear synthetic board shorts.
How often do we really need to wash our clothes? Could washing less often preserve the garment for longer?
I don’t think we’re washing our undergarments more than we need to, but we probably don’t need to wash our jeans and button-up shirts every time we wear them.
It’s technically true that each wash decreases a garment’s lifespan. But if it smells or has a stain, wash it! Plus, dirt and bacteria degrade fabric and stitching. Sensible washing protects your investment.
That said, if a garment is made with natural fibres, this usually means it can be worn more times without washing than something with synthetic fibres, which tend to take up your body odour.
I usually hang up my clothes to let them air out overnight after wearing them and if they don’t smell in the morning, they’ll get worn again.
If you’re sweating through your garment, you should probably wash it. If it doesn't smell or have stains, it’s probably fine to wait to wash it.
Are there particular fabrics you recommend people prioritise – or avoid – when they're trying to shop more sustainably?
Yes, polyester is everywhere. If you’re going to avoid just one word on a label, making the word “polyester” a disqualifier will probably make the biggest difference.
Many other fibres are petroleum byproducts too, including elastane, spandex, lycra, nylon and polyurethane. But polyester is more widespread and tends to take up more of a fabric’s composition. If you want a category to avoid, I’d say “all petroleum byproducts.” But listen, I wear these materials too.
When it comes to changing your lifestyle to align more with your ethics, I always say that just because you aren’t doing everything doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing anything. Choosing a cotton T-shirt over a polyester one is still a better choice, even if you still wear synthetic board shorts.
How often do we really need to wash our clothes? Could washing less often preserve the garment for longer?
I don’t think we’re washing our undergarments more than we need to, but we probably don’t need to wash our jeans and button-up shirts every time we wear them.
It’s technically true that each wash decreases a garment’s lifespan. But if it smells or has a stain, wash it! Plus, dirt and bacteria degrade fabric and stitching. Sensible washing protects your investment.
That said, if a garment is made with natural fibres, this usually means it can be worn more times without washing than something with synthetic fibres, which tend to take up your body odour.
I usually hang up my clothes to let them air out overnight after wearing them and if they don’t smell in the morning, they’ll get worn again.
If you’re sweating through your garment, you should probably wash it. If it doesn't smell or have stains, it’s probably fine to wait to wash it.
Is repairing clothing a realistic option for most people, or has it become a lost skill?
Almost wherever you live, you can find a class to learn basic garment repair. I’m a fan of people learning that skill because it deepens your connection with your clothing and your appreciation of the people who made it. Of course, it’s also cheaper than hiring someone to mend your clothes.
But I think it’s a big enough deal to just be someone who gets their clothes repaired. Very few people do that, partly because a lot of clothes are too low quality to endure repairs. I pay my local dry cleaner to repair my stuff.
I always try to repair a garment, even if it means putting a patch over a stain. Not every hole can be fixed, especially when it’s in the fabric itself as opposed to a busted seam, but I despair when I hear of people throwing jeans away when they could have found someone to darn a hole.
Is repairing clothing a realistic option for most people, or has it become a lost skill?
Almost wherever you live, you can find a class to learn basic garment repair. I’m a fan of people learning that skill because it deepens your connection with your clothing and your appreciation of the people who made it. Of course, it’s also cheaper than hiring someone to mend your clothes.
But I think it’s a big enough deal to just be someone who gets their clothes repaired. Very few people do that, partly because a lot of clothes are too low quality to endure repairs. I pay my local dry cleaner to repair my stuff.
I always try to repair a garment, even if it means putting a patch over a stain. Not every hole can be fixed, especially when it’s in the fabric itself as opposed to a busted seam, but I despair when I hear of people throwing jeans away when they could have found someone to darn a hole.
Looking into your own wardrobe, what’s the one item of clothing you've owned the longest, and why has it lasted?
The very oldest item I own is my pair of Red Wing Moc Toe boots. I think it was the first time I ever spent over $200 on footwear and I really had to think hard about the investment, but I’m glad I did because it was my entry point to this world of high-quality footwear.
They’re Goodyear welted, which means they can be resoled as many times as I like, and sturdy boots like these really do get better with age: the leather footbed was stiff at first, but with the heat and friction of regular wear, it conformed to the shape of my foot and it now feels like it was custom-made to my measurements.
They’re such a good example of something sustainable that doesn’t just last a long time, it improves with time. Sustainable stuff doesn’t have to be a downgrade; often, it’s simply a better product.
Images: Nick English
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